I love the valley OH!

I’ve just woken up. It’s my day off. I’m sitting here listening to Jason Forrest. I’m going to write about my raison d’être.

If you drive south from Paris on the A11 or the A10, you will eventually reach a string of villages and cities strung together by a large river. The river starts on the northern side of the Massif Central – the large mountain in the middle of the country – then runs north before heading west and eventually emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The river is called la Loire.

I joked with a friend in February that this river is my raison d’être. I’ve been working with wine for about 10 years, and during most of that time I’ve been strongly attracted to the wines that come from the valley flanking either side of this great river, and it’s tributaries. I’ve spent time learning about these wines, traveling and tasting (not nearly as often as I’d like), and generally obsessing about a region often viewed as an afterthought – known better to Americans for it’s historic chateaux than it’s wine.

The part of me that’s attracted to the underdog really responds to these wines – they are the vinous equivalent of screechy indie rock, or movies about the futility of life. Largely, it’s a region full of “little wines,” wines ideal for everyday drinking, with food, on the patio, at a party, etc. If you’ve ever eaten in Paris, the little neighborhood bistros often serve carafes of Touraine Gamay and Anjou blanc which are perfect for washing down hearty comfort food.

In a world obsessed with “great wine,” I take a lot of comfort in the simple wines that are made for enjoyment instead of contemplation. There is no finer wine for getting lost in a glass than a really good red Burgundy. Mosel Riesling is simply the greatest white wine in the world. These “grands vins” reflect where they come from, they express the mineral flavors of their soil, they are profound and complex. Wines from the Loire can be expressive and minerally, but also just fun to drink. Like Brian Eno’s definition of Ambient music – these wines are perfect for the background, but will reward deeper inspection.

The Loire also seems to be the spiritual hub of the “vin naturel” movement. It’s inspiring, the number of producers growing their grapes using organic or biodynamic methods, making wines with a minimum of sulfur, and generally letting the wines make themselves. It’s not the only area where producers work this way, but when so many of the great producers hold to this loose philosophy, it’s impressive. Names like Jo Pithon, François Chidaine, Nicolas Joly, Bernard Baudry, Jo Landron, and Jean-Pierre Robineau, are not to be missed.

But there’s more to the place than a bunch of hippies respecting the earth and quaffing wines. Each of the four main regions of the Loire produces profound, “world class” wines. Muscadet comes to us from the acidic soil of the pays Nantais. France greatest dessert wines grow on the hills of Layon and Quarts de Chaumes in the Anjou. Vouvray from the Touraine runs the range from intensely mineral driven dry wines to lush and unctuous stickies. Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé are the world benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc, and come from the Orléanais region. Those are just the whites…

The relatively cool climate of the Loire produces wines with elegance and brightness. Cool summer evenings and a temperate spring and fall make for wines that have naturally good acidity balanced with fresh fruit flavors. The grapes grown in each region are uniquely suited to express the characteristics of their vineyards: Melon in Muscadet, Chenin Blanc & Cabernet Franc in the Anjou and Touraine, Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Noir around Orléans. There are also a bunch of intriguing supporting players that make totally individual wines; reds from Côt and Pineau d’Aunis, whites from Romarantin and Menu Pineau.

There’s a lot to love about Loire wines. They can express the fleeting idea of terroir, and at the same time are good for gettin your drink on. There’s an astounding variety of styles and tastes. Best of all, they’re still a relative bargain – you can find great wines from most parts of the Loire for under $15, but for a few exceptions even the greatest wines are under $35.

Here are four wines that I’ll assign as homework. Search these guys out and see what I’m talking about. (If your local shop doesn’t sell these exact wines, ask them to suggest an alternative. If this shop doesn’t sell any Loire wines, let them know you’re interested in trying them – or find a different shop.)


François Pinon 2005 Vouvray Tradition - For my money, the perfect into to Vouvray, and maybe chenin blanc in general. Try this slightly off-dry with Thai Curry.

Philippe Alliet 2005 Chinon - Perfectly beautiful Cabernet Franc, big enough for those who need that, but still minerally and subtle.

Domaine de la Pepière 2005 Muscadet Classique - Yum!!! This is THE crisp summer white that I wanna drink boatloads of. The 2006 will be around soon, and that's great too.

Grange Tiphaine 2005 Touraine Rosé Riage Tournant - Super delicious rosé that's made from a really cool old vineyard planted to a bunch of different grape. Damien DeLecheneau is a young guy making really cool wines.

Comments

[Mark Middlebrook]

Life is not futile, despite what certain movies might say. Loire Valley wines are a good example of why not.